Bert Stern
Original Madman

  • United States
  • en
  • en
  • 87'
Bert Stern I Original Madman

Synopsis

Bert Stern: Original Madman traces the career of Bert Stern, a major figure in postwar American photography whose work left a lasting mark on advertising, fashion and celebrity portraiture. From the 1950s onward, he developed a direct, sophisticated and instantly recognisable visual language that helped redefine the aesthetics of magazines and American popular culture. 

Through his advertising campaigns, editorial work and now-iconic portraits of Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn, the film shows how Stern helped shape a postwar American imaginary in which the male gaze, the staging of women and the power of photography all played a part in the making of icons and collective fantasies. 

But the documentary is also interested in the man behind the images: a charismatic, ambitious and excessive photographer, full of contradictions. Through archives, photographs and testimonies, it follows a life in which creativity, celebrity and personal experience were constantly intertwined.

What you will find in this film

Bert Stern’s journey from advertising to fashion photography • How he helped shape some of the defining images of American visual culture • His work with Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn • The tension between commission, seduction and photographic invention • The portrait of a photographer who became a figure of his own era

Somehow there was another force guiding everything. It’s a magical force, a physical force that exists in all of us, ’cause we are our pictures. We are a visual experience.
The one thing you want as an artist is to have the courage and risk your instinct, and not be controlled by structure of any kind.
Pictures are like drugs. So I’m a prisoner of all the things I’ve done.
I fell in love with everything I photographed. I had to photograph my desires, my loves.
Women and photography were the two things I loved most in the world. When I became a Vogue photographer, I got my chance to combine them.
I always thought the picture I took was between me and the subject. Not the subject and not me. But the space between us.

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Further exploration

Bibliography

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Robert A. Sobieszek – Bert Stern: Adventures, Bulfinch Press / Little, Brown, 1997. (English) – The most useful overview of Stern's career, spanning advertising, fashion, celebrity portraiture and personal work.  

Bert Stern & Annie Gottlieb – The Last Sitting, William Morrow, 1982. (English) – Stern's original book on his celebrated 1962 sessions with Marilyn Monroe, combining photographs, contact sheets and recollections.

Bert Stern & Annie Gottlieb – Marilyn Monroe: The Complete Last Sitting, Schirmer Art Books, 1992. (English) – The most extensive published record of the sessions and an important document on celebrity portraiture, editing and image-making.  

Nancy Hall-Duncan – The History of Fashion Photography, Alpine Book Company, 1979. (English) – A foundational survey for placing Stern within the development of twentieth-century fashion photography.  

Eugénie Shinkle – Fashion Photography: The Story in 180 Pictures, Aperture, 2017. (English) – A concise contemporary history of fashion photography, particularly useful for thinking about the relationship between commerce, style and photographic authorship.